Resources & FAQ

Avoid bidding too early or too late. Bid strategically during the auction’s peak times when more participants are active. This can create competition and increase your chances of winning. Additionally, consider bidding in the final moments to catch others off guard, using a technique known as “sniping.”

Set up notifications or alerts for Hibid. This ensures you’re aware of any updates, outbids, or last-minute changes. Stay engaged by regularly checking the auction status, and be prepared to adjust your strategy based on the evolving bidding activity.

Be mindful of additional costs such as buyer’s premiums, taxes, and shipping fees. Factor these into your budget before placing a bid to avoid unexpected expenses. Read the auction terms and conditions carefully to understand all fees associated with the bidding process.

If the bidding gets too high and exceeds your budget, it’s time to walk away. Don’t get emotionally attached to the item and overspend.

Use Hibid’s automatic bidding feature.  This will allow you to set a maximum bid (stop bid) and let the system bid for you up to that amount.

Be sure to set your stop bid price. You want to do this before the auction starts. The auction will move way too fast for you to make a reasoned decision during the bidding process. The average lot takes 30 to 40 seconds to sell

1. Use Trusted Valuation Tools

These platforms aggregate real-world transaction data, market trends, and vehicle specifics:

• Kelley Blue Book (KBB):  Offers a Fair Purchase Price based on actual sales data. Many listings even show “Good” or “Great” price badges.
• Consumer Reports Car Value Estimator: Lets you input year, make, model, mileage, and condition to get trade-in and private party values.
• Black Book: Used by dealers to assess wholesale and trade-in values

2. Compare Listings

Search for similar vehicles on platforms like Autotrader, Cars.com, or Craigslist:

• Match year, make, model, trim, mileage, and condition
• Look at local vs. national prices to spot regional pricing trends

3. Try the “Used Car Value Score” Formula

Here is a simple formula to compare deals:

Value Score = (Mileage ÷ 10,000) × (Price ÷ 1,000)

Lower scores suggest better value. For example:

• 50,000 miles and $12,000 → Score = 5 × 12 = 60
• 80,000 miles and $7,000 → Score = 8 × 7 = 56 (better deal)

To determine a good price for a used car, you need to blend objective valuation tools with a realistic assessment of the car’s condition. Here’s how to do it like a pro:

🧰 Step 1: Start with a Baseline Value

Use trusted valuation platforms to get a ballpark figure:

• Kelley Blue Book (KBB) and Consumer Reports let you input the car’s year, make, model, mileage, and condition to get trade-in, private party, and retail values
• These tools factor in market trends, seasonal demand, and regional pricing

🔍 Step 2: Assess the Car’s Condition

Condition can swing the price significantly. Here’s what to look for:

• Exterior: Dents, scratches, rust, paint quality
• Interior: Upholstery wear, dashboard condition, cleanliness
• Mechanical: Engine performance, transmission, brakes, tires
• History: Accident reports, service records, number of owners

Most valuation tools let you select a condition tier:

📊 Step 3: Compare Similar Listings

Search platforms like Autotrader or Cars.com for similar vehicles:

• Match year, trim, mileage, and condition
• Look for “Good” or “Great Price” badges based on KBB’s fair market value

💡 Step 4: Adjust for Extras or Deficiencies

• Add value for upgrades like leather seats, sunroof, or new tires
• Subtract value for missing features, worn-out parts, or lack of maintenance records

🧠 Final Tip: Think Like a Buyer and Seller

If you’re buying, aim for a price below the fair market value for the condition. If you’re selling, price it just above that to leave room for negotiation.

To determine a used car’s value through market research, you want to combine data-driven tools, real-world comparisons, and insider insights. Here’s how to do it like a savvy buyer or seller:

📈 1. Use Professional Valuation Tools

These platforms aggregate transaction data, dealer pricing, and regional trends:

• Consumer Reports Car Value Estimator: Lets you input year, make, model, mileage, and condition to get trade-in and private party values
• Edmunds True Market Value (TMV): Shows what others are actually paying for similar cars in your area
• NADA Guides: Offers book values used by dealers and lenders

🔍 2. Compare Real Listings

Search platforms like:

• Autotrader, Cars.com, Craigslist, and Facebook Marketplace
• Filter by year, make, model, mileage, condition, and location
• Note pricing trends and how extras (like leather seats or sunroofs) affect value

🧠 3. Analyze Supply & Demand

• Check how many similar vehicles are listed in your area
• Fewer listings = higher demand = stronger pricing power
• Seasonal trends matter too (e.g., convertibles spike in spring)

🛠️ 4. Factor in Vehicle History

• Use Carfax or AutoCheck to assess accident history, ownership, and service records
• A clean history can boost value by hundreds or even thousands

💬 5. Talk to Dealers & Mechanics

• Ask local dealers what they’d offer for trade-in vs. resale
• Mechanics can give insight into common issues with that model, which affects long-term value

🧮 Bonus: Create a Value Matrix

Build a simple spreadsheet comparing:

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Exterior Condition: Check each panel and the roof, looking for scratches, dents, and rust. Watch out for misaligned panels or large gaps, which can indicate either sloppy assembly at the factory or shoddy repair. Use a magnet to check for body filler. The paint color and finish should be the same on every body panel.

Inspect the tailpipe for black grease.

Get under the vehicle and check the wheel wells and underbody for rust, which could lead to future problems.

Make sure the doors are working well and don’t show signs of heavy use.

Look under the hood for obvious signs of wear. First, make sure the engine doesn’t appear to have fluid leaks dirtying the block. Do a quick oil check to see that it isn’t murky, and also inspect transmission fluid levels. Feel any rubber hoses and belts to make sure they aren’t cracking or super stiff.

Glass: Look carefully at the glass to make sure there are no cracks or large, pocked areas. A small stone chip might not be cause for alarm. But cracks in the windshield will worsen and lead to a costly repair.

Suspension: Walk around the car to see whether it’s sitting level. Push down on each corner. If the shock absorbers are in good shape, the car should rebound just once, not bounce up and down. Grab the top of each front tire and tug it back and forth. If you feel play in it or hear a clunking sound, the wheel bearings or suspension joints may be shot.

Lights and lenses: Have a friend confirm that all lights are working. Make sure all light lenses and reflectors are intact and not cracked, fogged with moisture, or missing.

Tires: You can tell a lot from the tires. A car with less than, say, 20,000 miles should probably still have its original tires. Be wary of a low-mileage car with new tires, and check to make sure all four tires are the same. If there are different branded tires on the car, ask why they have been replaced.

Treadwear should be even across the width of the tread, and the same on the tires on the left and right sides of the car. Ask whether the tires have been regularly rotated. If not, the wear is usually more severe on the drive wheels.

Evaluating the air conditioning (AC) system in a used car doesn’t require a mechanic’s toolkit—but it does take a bit of attention and know-how. Here’s how an average consumer can assess it confidently:

1. Start the Car and Turn the AC to Max

• Set the fan to full blast and temperature to the coldest setting

• Wait 2–3 minutes and feel the air from the vents

• Cold air should be noticeably cooler than ambient temperature—ideally under 50°F (10°C)

2. Check for Odors

• Musty or moldy smells may indicate a dirty cabin air filter or mold in the evaporator

• Chemical smells could signal a refrigerant leak

3. Listen for Unusual Noises

Clicking, grinding, or rattling when the AC is on could mean:

• A failing compressor clutch
• Loose or worn belts
• Debris in the blower motor

4. Test All Fan Speeds and Vents

• Cycle through all fan speeds—each should respond distinctly

• Switch between vent modes (face, feet, defrost) to ensure airflow is properly redirected

5. Observe Compressor Engagement

• With the hood open, watch the AC compressor clutch engage when the AC is turned on

• If it doesn’t engage, it could mean:

  • Low refrigerant

  • Electrical issue

  • Faulty compressor

6. Ask for Service Records

• Look for recent AC service, refrigerant recharge, or compressor replacement

• If the AC hasn’t been touched in years, it may be due for maintenance

Bonus: Use a Thermometer

• Place a digital thermometer in the center vent

• After 2–3 minutes, a healthy AC system should read between 40–55°F (4–13°C) depending on outside temperature

If anything feels off—weak airflow, warm air, strange noises—it’s worth having a mechanic do a deeper inspection.

Evaluating the electronics in a used car might sound intimidating, but even an average consumer can do a solid check with a little guidance and curiosity. Here’s a practical step-by-step guide to help you spot issues before they become expensive regrets:

1. Start with the Basics

Turn on the ignition and test the following:

• Power windows and locks: Do they respond quickly and smoothly?
• Interior lights: Check dome lights, dashboard backlighting, and glove box illumination
• Horn and wipers: Simple but often overlooked
• Mirrors: Test power adjustments and heating (if equipped)

2. Infotainment System Check

• Touchscreen responsiveness: Tap, swipe, and navigate menus
• Bluetooth pairing: Try connecting your phone and making a call
• Radio and speakers: Test AM/FM, satellite, and sound quality
• Navigation system: If built-in, check map accuracy and GPS signal
• USB/AUX ports: Plug in a device to confirm charging and audio input

3. Advanced Features (if equipped)

• Backup camera: Look for clarity, alignment, and delay
• Parking sensors: Test by slowly approaching an object
• Adaptive cruise control / lane assist: Confirm activation and dashboard indicators
• Keyless entry / push-button start: Try locking/unlocking and starting the car with the fob

5. Ask for Service Records

• Look for past repairs involving the alternator, battery, fuses, or wiring
• Look in the glove box. Look for owner’s manual as well as repair and service records
• Frequent electrical issues may signal deeper problems
• Purchase a Carfax report

Pro Tip: Trust Your Gut

If the electronics feel glitchy, slow, or inconsistent—especially in a newer car—it could be a red flag and maybe evidence of a flood car. Modern vehicles rely heavily on electronic systems, so even small issues can snowball.

Oddly enough, vehicles consume energy even when they are completely off. For instance, one of the devices that continues to operate when the vehicle is switched off is the anti-theft alarm.

The battery can be included among the most delicate components of a car and, therefore, it requires more care and maintenance than other parts. Without a battery, it is very difficult to start an engine.

• Look for warning lights on the dashboard
• If possible, ask for a multimeter reading or have a mechanic check voltage output
• A weak battery can cause erratic electronic behavior

Even if you’re not a techie, a basic scanner can:

• Reveal electrical fault codes
• Show past issues that were cleared but not fixed
• Help you spot hidden problems in systems like airbags, sensors, or emissions

Mastering Your OBD II Scanner: A Step-by-Step Guide on How to Use it Effectively

This On-Board Diagnostics (OBD-II) system was introduced in 1996 and primarily works off of a series of sensors in your car that regulate vehicle functions. OBD-II codes, or trouble codes, tell you specifically what’s wrong with your car – from the transmission to the ignition, to brakes and airbags.  Most importantly, it can save you hundreds of dollars in service costs! OBD systems can detect fault conditions early, before serious damage occurs to your vehicle.  These range from under $100 to up to $400 or more for professional versions. Make sure the tool you choose works on the vehicle you want to examine.

OBD2 systems include a 16-pin OBD2 diagnostic connector, which is located on the driver side of your vehicle below the steering wheel. Using a specialized diagnostic tool, called a scan tool, you can access the OBD2 computer system in your car. There are two basic types of scan tools: PC/Mobile-based and stand alone.

Stand alone scan tools are typically handheld devices that do not require a computer or mobile device for operation. They are often limited in functionality, lack advanced diagnostic features, are not upgradeable, and come with a high price tag. PC/Mobile-based scan tools require a laptop, mobile phone, or tablet with OBD software to read OBD diagnostic data. The scan tool connects to the laptop or mobile device using USB, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or a Serial port. PC/Mobile-based scan tools are very flexible and powerful because they harness the power and upgradeability of modern computers and mobile devices.

You may want to read this 2023 review of various models available: https://www.caranddriver.com/car-accessories/g42938164/best-obd2-car-scanners-tested/

Often confused with a clean title, vehicles with a clear title also don’t have signs of severe damage. However, clear title vehicles differ from clean title vehicles in that they were once issued as salvage and have since been repaired and passed a state inspection in order to earn the clear title. Aside from clean title cars, clear title cars are the most desirable option when shopping for a used vehicle.

Cars that have a salvage title typically have either been stolen, extensively repaired, or sustained damage beyond 75 percent of the vehicle’s original value. While salvage vehicles can be repaired to be worthy of the road, they can never be eligible to receive clear title status. Due to their lack of ideal vehicle history, cars that have a salvage title are typically sold at drastically discounted prices and usually aren’t eligible for financing by most lenders.

Insurance companies are typically the ones responsible for placing a salvage title on a vehicle and paying its claim. While they typically issue the salvage title when they deem a vehicle a total loss, this isn’t always the case. It’s important to note that just because a car has a salvage title, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it has undergone extensive damage. In rare cases, insurance companies will issue vehicles with a salvage title to avoid paying out large claims associated with medical or property damage costs. As such, some cars with salvage titles can be in good condition. 

Vehicles that have serious discrepancies in their original ownership documentation can sometimes obtain a vehicle title by using a bonded title. When bonded titles are issued, a security bond that matches the vehicle’s value is purchased as security. If a valid claim to the vehicle comes forward, the security bond is used to remove any claims of lien or ownership. Vehicle that receive a bonded title will typically keep the title for three to five years. Because obtaining a bonded tile typically costs more than other title recovery options, it’s typically chosen as a last resort.

Rebuilt or reconstructed titles are issued to salvage vehicles that have been successfully repaired and are completely safe and operable. Such titles are typically issued by either an insurance company, collision center, licensed rebuilder, or body shop. In order to obtain a rebuilt or salvage title, an extensive inspection is typically required to verify that the vehicle is roadworthy. Depending on the state your vehicle is registered in, rebuilt or reconstructed title vehicles may still be referred to as salvage. If you choose to purchase a rebuilt or reconstructed title vehicle, note that there may be limitations on its vehicle insurance.

While each state has differing laws regarding what classifies a vehicle as a lemon, a lemon title is typically given to a vehicle that has several dysfunctional components that make the car unsafe to drive. Before receiving this title, the vehicle can be repaired to receive a more-favorable title. If the problems with the vehicle can’t be resolved, however, the vehicle will be branded as a lemon.

Cars that have received a junk or dismantled title have obtained severe damage to major vehicle components. As a result, they can never become roadworthy regardless of receiving repairs. Junk or dismantled vehicles are typically sold to junkyards. While such cars will never be fit for the road, they can be used for salvaging parts or as scrap metal. Most junk or dismantled titles cannot be removed or changed. However, there are a few extremely rare cases in which the vehicle can undergo an expensive and complex reconstruction and inspection process to upgrade the vehicle’s title status. Because this process is generally far more expensive than the vehicle is worth, it’s rarely attempted.

Those purchasing a used vehicle should be wary of cars with an odometer rollback title. If a vehicle has this title, it means that someone illegally tried to roll back the odometer of the car to change its high mileage to a lower amount to increase its selling price. To detect such fraudulent activity, a certified mechanic is required. If the mechanic determines that the vehicle’s odometer has been tampered with, they will brand it with an odometer rollback title. Another way to determine if a vehicle’s odometer has been rolled back is to obtain a vehicle history report from a trusted source.

If a vehicle has a flood or water damage title, there may be issues with its mechanical or electrical components. Such issues may be caused by floods or severe thunderstorms, or cases where the vehicle was pitched in a lake. Most insurance companies automattically classify these vehicles as totaled.  Because the issues resulting from such damage are often extensive, it’s important to have a mechanic inspect the used vehicle you’re considering purchasing before closing the deal.

While a flood-damaged car may be repairable, the extent of the repairs will depend on how much water entered the vehicle and which systems were affected. Mechanical components and electrical systems may suffer long-term damage even after repairs. In some cases, repairs can restore functionality, but the car’s reliability and safety features could remain compromised.

Yes, you can insure a flood-damaged car, but it depends on the type of damage and how the car is titled. If the vehicle has a salvage or rebuilt title due to flood damage, some insurance companies may offer only limited coverage, such as liability insurance, rather than comprehensive or collision coverage. Be sure to clarify the coverage options with your insurance provider.

Signs of a flood-damaged car include musty odors, water stains on upholstery, rust in hidden areas (like under seats or inside the trunk), corrosion on metal components, malfunctioning electronics, and silt or debris in unusual areas. A newer-looking interior in an older vehicle could also indicate that the interior was replaced due to water damage.

While vehicle history reports can provide valuable information, they don’t always detect flood damage. If the damage wasn’t reported or no insurance claim was filed, it may not show up in the report. Always inspect the vehicle thoroughly and consider a professional mechanic’s evaluation.

Musty smells, water stains, or rust in hidden areas like under the seats are common indicators. Additionally, be wary of new carpeting in an older car and strong air fresheners that might be masking a bad smell.

Yes, flood damage can compromise critical safety features, such as airbags and anti-lock brakes, which rely on electronic systems that may be damaged or corroded due to water exposure.

You can also cheese to walk away.

While it is legal to buy a car with a salvage or rebuilt title, these vehicles have been deemed a total loss by insurers. Always have a mechanic thoroughly inspect such vehicles to ensure repairs were done properly, and be aware that underlying flood damage may lead to long-term issues.

If you suspect flood damage, start by checking the vehicle identification number (VIN) through services like VINCheck or Carfax. Also, have a mechanic inspect the vehicle for hidden water damage, such as rust or moisture in inaccessible areas.

If you are doubtful of a vehicles reliability, choose to walk away.

Flood-damaged cars are often transported to other regions to avoid scrutiny by local buyers who may be familiar with flood risks. Sellers may try to sell these vehicles in areas less affected by flooding, making it important for all used car buyers to remain vigilant.

Title washing is an illegal practice where a vehicle’s title, indicating major damage, is “cleaned” by transferring it to a state with more lenient title laws. This allows the seller to present the vehicle with a clean title, hiding its flood-damaged past.

Yes, water damage can lead to corrosion in electrical systems and mechanical components, causing long-term reliability issues. Even if repairs are made, the car may suffer from ongoing problems that could shorten its lifespan.