FAQs

Start by setting a realistic budget for the item you’re interested in. Research the market value and historical prices for similar items. Determine your maximum bid (stop bid)  and stick to it. Consider using incremental bidding to avoid getting caught up in the heat of the moment.

The opening bid amount on most of our inventory is a placeholder amount, not a real bid. For instance, in many cases for a car or truck the opening bid will be $10. Do NOT start your bidding at this bid amount. Do your due diligence on the item and determine its real value and bid from there. 

Avoid bidding too early or too late. Bid strategically during the auction’s peak times when more participants are active. This can create competition and increase your chances of winning. Additionally, consider bidding in the final moments to catch others off guard, using a technique known as “sniping.”

Set up notifications or alerts for Hibid. This ensures you’re aware of any updates, outbids, or last-minute changes. Stay engaged by regularly checking the auction status, and be prepared to adjust your strategy based on the evolving bidding activity.

Be mindful of additional costs such as buyer’s premiums, taxes, and shipping fees. Factor these into your budget before placing a bid to avoid unexpected expenses. Read the auction terms and conditions carefully to understand all fees associated with the bidding process.

Stay composed and avoid making impulsive decisions. If you get outbid, reassess the situation. Decide if you’re willing to increase your bid within your budget. Keep in mind that emotional bidding can lead to overspending. It’s okay to walk away if the bidding exceeds your predetermined limit.

If the bidding gets too high and exceeds your budget, it’s time to walk away. Don’t get emotionally attached to the item and overspend.

Use Hibid’s automatic bidding feature.  This will allow you to set a maximum bid (stop bid) and let the system bid for you up to that amount.

Be sure to set your stop bid price. You want to do this before the auction starts. The auction will move way too fast for you to make a reasoned decision during the bidding process. The average lot takes 30 to 40 seconds to sell

Don’t get caught up in the excitement of the auction and overbid. Take your time and bid strategically.

This is a very important question to ask yourself. Setting your maximum bid is essential. I mentioned before each lot of an auction sells in about 30 seconds. In this time you do not have the time to determine what you want to pay for an item. You are guaranteed to over pay for an item if you do not set your limits for each item prior to auction start. It is very easy to get caught up in the fast pace of the auctioneers chant or bid calling. You should take into account the following things when determining your maximum price:

• Any condition issues.
• Buyer’s premium and other fees that will be added to the hammer price.
• Any tax.
• Shipping or transportation fees.
• Potential repair fees

NOTE: Central Florida Auction does not cover shipping in any form and at any time.

Use online resources such as Kelley Blue Book (KBB), Edmunds, or NADA Guides to estimate the fair market value of the car. These tools take into account factors like make, model, year, mileage, condition, and optional features. Try to find the Used Care Trade In value.

Consider the car’s overall condition and mileage. Lower mileage generally adds to a car’s value, but condition (both exterior and interior) is equally important. Look for signs of wear, damage, or any needed repairs.

Check local classified ads, online marketplaces, and dealerships to see how similar cars are priced in your area. Prices can vary based on location, demand, and regional factors.

For extensive information see this Car Research site Carfax Vehicle Reference

Now, don’t fall in love with the car just yet. It’s a prudent next step to get an evaluation from a trusted mechanic. The cost of a pre-purchase car inspection can vary, but it can be well worth the expense. A mechanic can get deeper into the quality of the vehicle, covering everything from brake pad wear to trouble codes and spark plug deterioration to any number of issues you can’t see from an on-the-lot inspection.

Consider the long-term costs of ownership, including insurance, maintenance, and fuel efficiency. Some cars may have lower upfront costs but higher ongoing expenses. You can find detailed information on ownership costs and average repairs. other research and reviews on this trusted site:  https://www.carfax.com/car-research

Read reviews from reputable automotive publications and user reviews from owners. This can provide insights into common issues, user experiences, and the overall satisfaction of owners.

Exterior Condition: Check each panel and the roof, looking for scratches, dents, and rust. Watch out for misaligned panels or large gaps, which can indicate either sloppy assembly at the factory or shoddy repair. Use a magnet to check for body filler. The paint color and finish should be the same on every body panel.

Inspect the tailpipe for black grease.

Get under the vehicle and check the wheel wells and underbody for rust, which could lead to future problems.

Make sure the doors are working well and don’t show signs of heavy use.

Look under the hood for obvious signs of wear. First, make sure the engine doesn’t appear to have fluid leaks dirtying the block. Do a quick oil check to see that it isn’t murky, and also inspect transmission fluid levels. Feel any rubber hoses and belts to make sure they aren’t cracking or super stiff.

Glass: Look carefully at the glass to make sure there are no cracks or large, pocked areas. A small stone chip might not be cause for alarm. But cracks in the windshield will worsen and lead to a costly repair.

Suspension: Walk around the car to see whether it’s sitting level. Push down on each corner. If the shock absorbers are in good shape, the car should rebound just once, not bounce up and down. Grab the top of each front tire and tug it back and forth. If you feel play in it or hear a clunking sound, the wheel bearings or suspension joints may be shot.

Lights and lenses: Have a friend confirm that all lights are working. Make sure all light lenses and reflectors are intact and not cracked, fogged with moisture, or missing.

Tires: You can tell a lot from the tires. A car with less than, say, 20,000 miles should probably still have its original tires. Be wary of a low-mileage car with new tires, and check to make sure all four tires are the same. If there are different branded tires on the car, ask why they have been replaced.

Treadwear should be even across the width of the tread, and the same on the tires on the left and right sides of the car. Ask whether the tires have been regularly rotated. If not, the wear is usually more severe on the drive wheels.

Central Florida Auction does not sell vehicles with reported flood damage history.  However, for your piece of mind, here are some key checks

• A musty odor in the interior, which sellers sometimes try to cover with a strong air-freshener
• Upholstery or carpeting that may be loose, new, stained or doesn’t seem to match the rest of the interior
• Damp carpets
• Rust around doors, under the dashboard, on the pedals or inside the hood and trunk latches
• Mud or silt in the glove compartment or under the seats
• Brittle wires under the dashboard
• Fog or moisture beads in the interior lights, exterior lights or instrument panel
• Any visual or odor signs of mold

You can get a free water damage check from Carfax:    Carfax Free Flooded Car Check

Any unusual noises coming from the engine, brakes, or transmission should be checked out by a mechanic. Rough transmission shifts are also a red flag.

Ensure the air conditioning cools quickly, and the heater warms you up. Check for even airflow on both the driver and passenger sides and the back seat vents.

The windows should go all the way up and down with no gaps. The headlights and brake lights should all work properly. Ensure the dashboard instruments light up when you start the car as well.

Oddly enough, vehicles consume energy even when they are completely off. For instance, one of the devices that continues to operate when the vehicle is switched off is the anti-theft alarm.

The battery can be included among the most delicate components of a car and, therefore, it requires more care and maintenance than other parts. Without a battery, it is very difficult to start an engine.

This On-Board Diagnostics (OBD-II) system was introduced in 1996 and primarily works off of a series of sensors in your car that regulate vehicle functions. OBD-II codes, or trouble codes, tell you specifically what’s wrong with your car – from the transmission to the ignition, to brakes and airbags.  Most importantly, it can save you hundreds of dollars in service costs! OBD systems can detect fault conditions early, before serious damage occurs to your vehicle.  These range from under $100 to up to $400 or more for professional versions. Make sure the tool you choose works on the vehicle you want to examine. 

OBD2 systems include a 16-pin OBD2 diagnostic connector, which is located on the driver side of your vehicle below the steering wheel. Using a specialized diagnostic tool, called a scan tool, you can access the OBD2 computer system in your car. There are two basic types of scan tools: PC/Mobile-based and stand alone.

Stand alone scan tools are typically handheld devices that do not require a computer or mobile device for operation. They are often limited in functionality, lack advanced diagnostic features, are not upgradeable, and come with a high price tag. PC/Mobile-based scan tools require a laptop, mobile phone, or tablet with OBD software to read OBD diagnostic data. The scan tool connects to the laptop or mobile device using USB, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or a Serial port. PC/Mobile-based scan tools are very flexible and powerful because they harness the power and upgradeability of modern computers and mobile devices.

You may want to read this 2023 review of various models available: https://www.caranddriver.com/car-accessories/g42938164/best-obd2-car-scanners-tested/

Often confused with a clean title, vehicles with a clear title also don’t have signs of severe damage. However, clear title vehicles differ from clean title vehicles in that they were once issued as salvage and have since been repaired and passed a state inspection to earn the clear title. Clean vehicles don’t have a specified financial lien on them that prevents them from being sold and are one of the only types of vehicle titles eligible for financing. Aside from clean title cars, clear title cars are the most desirable option when shopping for a used vehicle.

Cars that have a salvage title typically have either been stolen, extensively repaired, or sustained damage beyond 75 percent of the vehicle’s original value. While salvage vehicles can be repaired to be worthy of the road, they can never be eligible to receive clear title status. Due to their unideal vehicle history, cars that have a salvage title are typically sold at drastically discounted prices and usually aren’t eligible for financing by most lenders.

Insurance companies are typically the ones responsible for placing a salvage title on a vehicle and paying its claim. While they typically issue the salvage title when they deem a vehicle a total loss, this isn’t always the case. It’s important to note that just because a car has a salvage title, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it has undergone extensive damage. In rare cases, insurance companies will issue vehicles with a salvage title to avoid paying out large claims associated with medical or property damage costs. As such, some cars with salvage titles can be in good condition. 

Vehicles that have serious discrepancies in their original ownership documentation can sometimes obtain a vehicle title by using a bonded title. When bonded titles are issued, a security bond that matches the vehicle’s value is purchased as security. If a valid claim to the vehicle comes forward, the security bond is used to remove any claims of lien or ownership. Vehicle that receive a bonded title will typically keep the title for three to five years. Because obtaining a bonded tile typically costs more than other title recovery options, it’s typically chosen as a last resort.

Rebuilt or reconstructed titles are issued to salvage vehicles that have been successfully repaired and are completely safe and operable. Such titles are typically issued by either an insurance company, collision center, licensed rebuilder, or body shop. In order to obtain a rebuilt or salvage title, an extensive inspection is typically required to verify that the vehicle is roadworthy. Depending on the state your vehicle is registered in, rebuilt or reconstructed title vehicles may still be referred to as salvage. If you choose to purchase a rebuilt or reconstructed title vehicle, note that there may be limitations on its vehicle insurance.

While each state has differing laws regarding what classifies a vehicle as a lemon, a lemon title is typically given to a vehicle that has several dysfunctional components that make the car unsafe to drive. Before receiving this title, the vehicle can be repaired to receive a more-favorable title. If the problems with the vehicle can’t be resolved, however, the vehicle will be branded as a lemon.

Cars that have received a junk or dismantled title have obtained severe damage to major vehicle components. As a result, they can never become roadworthy regardless of receiving repairs. Junk or dismantled vehicles are typically sold to junkyards. While such cars will never be fit for the road, they can be used for salvaging parts or as scrap metal. Most junk or dismantled titles cannot be removed or changed. However, there are a few extremely rare cases in which the vehicle can undergo an expensive and complex reconstruction and inspection process to upgrade the vehicle’s title status. Because this process is generally far more expensive than the vehicle is worth, it’s rarely attempted.

Those purchasing a used vehicle should be wary of cars with an odometer rollback title. If a vehicle has this title, it means that someone illegally tried to roll back the odometer of the car to change its high mileage to a lower amount to increase its selling price. To detect such fraudulent activity, a certified mechanic is required. If the mechanic determines that the vehicle’s odometer has been tampered with, they will brand it with an odometer rollback title. Another way to determine if a vehicle’s odometer has been rolled back is to obtain a vehicle history report from a trusted source.

If a vehicle has a flood or water damage title, there may be issues with its mechanical or electrical components. Such issues may be caused by floods or severe thunderstorms, or cases where the vehicle was pitched in a lake. Because the issues resulting from such damage are often extensive, it’s important to have a mechanic inspect the used vehicle you’re considering purchasing before closing the deal.

Sales tax will be added to every item which is 7%.

Online bidding fee is 2% on the total bill

There will be a( $195.00 admin fee) charge to title items.

We send the title applications to the DMV and they take about 2 to 3 weeks to come back. 

We do offer an expedited Fast Title option for an extra fee.

If you are paying with a credit card there will be a 3.75% fee added to your purchase.

The office provides a variety of license plate services.

Be aware that we do not provide Temporary Tags.

Everything must be paid by 5pm the day of the sale for both online and in person purchases

We accept cash, credit and debit cards, cashiers checks and wire transfer.

If you win a property at auction and can’t pay you’ll face legal consequences and financial penalties. This is because auction sales are legally binding once the hammer falls. 

You will be permantly declined from bidding at our and many other Hibid auctions.

Unlike an online-only auction, which takes place entirely via the internet, a webcast auction allows auctioneers to accept internet bids and live floor bids for the same auction in real-time.

Simply put, a webcast is a broadcast over the web.

Online bidders will hear the live audio of,  and participate in.the ongoing auction in realtime. They will see the pictures of the item and be able to see both online and floor bids. Floor dids are the ones from people are actually at the auction.

In case of a tie bid, the winner will be the floor bidder.

First you must create and login to Hibid. Once you are logged in, you then search for our auction via Company Name.

After you click on Company Search, enter the name: Central Florida Auction

Not only do you need to make a Hibid account, you will need to register for individual companies auctions.

The first time you login to our auction, you will need to go through the approval process. This is a one-time process and your approval is permanent with us after that. 

The biggest failure  in registering with our auction is that we must speak with you on the phone. We will attempt to call you two or three times to get you through the approval process. If you are not approved, any bids you make will stay in a pending status and be thrown out once the auction for your bid item occurs.

Please answer our call or return our call if we leave a message. Be sure that your phone number is correct and your mailbox is setup and not full of messages. We will also text you if we cannot get you by phone.

Also you must be willing to send us ID in the form of a drivers license and a credit or debit card. Note: this is in addition to the ID you provided to obtain a Hibid account.

Being declined from an auction is a very serious auction offence. There are a number of reasons for which you can be declined. 

• Non Paying
• Bad Check
• Chargeback
• Difficult
• No Show
• Other
• Low Bidder Score
• Being declined by previous auction houses.

Once you have recieved a decline status from one auction,  you most likely will be declined by ALL AUCTION HOUSES ON HIBID!

This means that most likely, you will NOT be able to use Hibid going forward.

The only way to rectify a declined status is to negotiate with that auction. This most likely haveing to pay any past bills and requesting they remove your declined status.

Whenever someone brings an item to us to sell, we ask what the lowest amount that they will take for the item.  This amount is the Reserve Amount.  This reserve amount is not published.  Determin this amount by researching the fair market value for an item. For vehicles, you can get the Reserve Amount range by checking the USED CAR TRADE IN value on Kelly Blue Book

Kelley Blue Book Online

The Reserve Amount will possibly be within the value range givin.

Not all items have reserve amounts. Items from Disney, city and county surplus don’t usually have one.

In some auctions the highest bidder wins the item. In our auctions, it is the highest bid OVER the reserve amount If the Reserve Amount is not met, the Auctioneer will mark the auction as PASS or PASSED and the item will not sell.

If you are still interested in the item, you can call the auction house on Monday and make an offer.

When items are entered into the auction catalog software, the system automatically enters a starting bid. For more expensive items, the auctioneer sometimes will enter a higher starting bid number. This not often done.

Do not use this bid amount as YOUR starting bid amount. Look at the opening bid amount in this image:

Note that there are no bids so far on this item and the opening bid amount is set to $10.00. The value of $10 dollars is NOT where you should start your bidding!! 

During your research on the vehicle for which you want to bid, you should have come up with a value for the vehicle. This value is where you want to start your bidding.

For instance, if you find the the value of the vehicle is between $9,000. and $11,000 then your starting bid should be at least $9000.  If the determined value is too much for your budget, then find another car that is better suited. You MUST do your homework!

If you were to use autobidding and start with a really low value, the sytem can’t increment the bid up fast enough and you will most likely lose the bid. 

Please don’t bid on multiple vehicles unless you are a dealer. The problem is that you may win most or a lot of the cars you bid on and then YOU MUST PAY FOR ALL THE ITEMS YOU WIN!

Narrow your bidding choices based on your research!

A bid is a legally binding contract between you and the auction house. A bid can never be taken back. 

Remember these two things:

1. All winning bids MUST be paid in full by 5pm the day of the auction.
2. Failure to pay will cause you to be sent to collections and you will be declined from particpating in ANY OTHER AUCTION.